With Esther and Eric heading back to San Francisco, the rest of our time at the JW Marriott Masai Mara took on a quieter, more intimate rhythm. Suddenly, it was just the two of us on game drives — which felt like having a private safari experience without the private-safari price tag. And what an unforgettable stretch of days it turned out to be.

Intimate Game Drives & Unforgettable Sightings

Over our final drives, we encountered even more of the Mara’s remarkable wildlife: curious mongooses darting through the grass, large troops of baboons, massive crocodiles lurking along the riverbanks, and countless bird species with colors and calls that never seemed to repeat.

One afternoon, we followed a cheetah for nearly an hour as he stalked potential prey across the savanna. It was fascinating — and surprisingly emotional — to watch him ultimately fail to secure a meal. Nature doesn’t guarantee success, even for the fastest land animal on Earth.

Another rare and unexpected sighting was a serval, a beautifully patterned wild cat that even our guide was surprised to see. Our excitement may have gotten the best of us — we ended up stuck in the mud while trying to follow him. Thankfully, another safari vehicle came to our rescue, and the adventure continued.

Afterward, our guide took us down to the river, where he served us lunch as we watched families of hippos swimming, playing, and making incredibly loud noises just feet away. During the meal, we also spotted two enormous crocodiles resting nearby — a thrilling reminder that in the Mara, you’re never just “having lunch.”

One evening on our way back to the tent, we encountered a playful family of monkeys, including several babies tumbling through the trees. Moments like these happened often — unscheduled, unscripted, and absolutely magical.

Witnessing One of Nature’s Most Intimate Rituals

One of the most extraordinary moments of our entire safari was witnessing lions mating. We learned that the mating ritual can last up to seven days, with lions mating every 15–20 minutes to increase the chances of success.

The actual act itself was brief but captivating. The lioness approached the male when she was ready, allowed the moment to happen (about 12 seconds), followed by a quick bite at her neck, a short rest side by side, and then — she calmly walked away. Moments later, he followed her to the next location to repeat the process.

Casey captured an incredible video of the moment, and you can hear him whispering, “Oh my God, it’s happening.” It makes for a good laugh. Enjoy it for yourself here: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPJmsZVvs7hv4wBEGlfbNrp9s06eZ7c7o46NIAoc0pyG4G7u490lLpbwvsYMo9ibQkey=cTk1UmhsOU5PUFRKR20tT3dBWV9KWWhyY0JGaWN3

The Thrill of the Chase: Leopard & Rhino Sightings

We also followed a highly anticipated leopard “sighting,” though we never actually saw the leopard itself. Leopards are famously elusive, often hiding high in trees and blending seamlessly into their surroundings. Still, the thrill of the chase was exhilarating — especially with nearly a dozen vehicles involved. Leopard sightings are rare, and guides communicate with one another to give guests the best chance possible. Their teamwork and generosity were genuinely heartwarming.

A similar scene unfolded during a black rhino sighting. Vehicles rushed to the location, and we were rewarded with brief but powerful glimpses of this majestic animal as it moved cautiously from bush to bush. While I had hoped to see it more clearly, I felt incredibly grateful just to witness such a rare and endangered creature in the wild.

A Meal We’ll Never Forget: Kenyan Cuisine Night

The second half of our safari included our favorite meal of the entire stay — a Kenyan cuisine night served family-style. The spread was incredible:

• A rich, comforting broth
• Thyme-marinated char-grilled chicken
• Kenyan beef stew
• Thyme and garlic-marinated seabass
• Githeri (a hearty bean dish that became Casey’s absolute favorite)
• Matoke (plantains)

Sides included kachumbari salad, sautéed spinach and kale, garlic-tossed carrot and cabbage, chapatti, and ugali. For dessert, we enjoyed Kaimati, a beloved Kenyan delicacy.

The flavors were bold, aromatic, and reminded us strongly of Indian cuisine. Curious, we did some research and learned that this influence stems from the Indian diaspora in Kenya, which grew significantly during British colonial rule when Indian laborers were brought in to help build railways and infrastructure. Over generations, Indian spices, techniques, and flavors blended beautifully with traditional Kenyan cuisine — a culinary collaboration rooted in shared history.

Every bite was unforgettable. We ate far more than we needed to, and we have absolutely no regrets.

A Gentle Final Day in the Mara

On our final full day, I wasn’t feeling well and stayed in our tent most of the day, coming out only for a light lunch. As it turns out, dehydration was the culprit. After drinking plenty of water and resting, I felt well enough to go on our final evening game drive — and I’m so glad I did.

That drive was pure bliss. Our guide took us to a stunning vantage point overlooking the Masai Mara, which spans roughly 580 square miles of protected wilderness — larger than many major cities. From that viewpoint, we watched the sun set in spectacular fashion. The sky exploded with deep shades of orange, and I was able to capture the moment with the silhouette of five trees in the foreground.

It was the perfect, poetic ending to our safari.

That evening, the night sky was just as breathtaking — an abundance of twinkling stars and visible planets, with even a faint nebula glowing overhead. It felt like the universe itself was putting on a final show just for us.

Saying Goodbye to Something Truly Special

On our final morning, we packed up, thanked the staff for their extraordinary hospitality, enjoyed lunch and a few drinks, and received our professionally edited photos from the Canon lab.

👉 Here is a link to the 144 edited photos:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipONW7U3pNeVVBGvY6m3W35F0YrSMaRPYAuMdCD9FYo_E-rKpx6qJz6qSO4RkSPs6Q?key=U3pQX09MQ3B6UEJESUhuVlNXdTd0MXZBMF9YV1hB

In total, I took over 3,000 photos in five days — with many more still waiting to be edited. These, however, are some of the very best.

After lunch and heartfelt goodbyes, Jacob drove us to the airstrip, where we purchased a few souvenirs from members of the Maasai tribe. When our tiny plane arrived and we boarded, the reality of our safari coming to an end truly sank in.

For both of us, this has been one of the most magical journeys we have ever experienced. From the lodge and the staff to the wildlife and landscapes — and above all, Mother Nature — we couldn’t have asked for more. We saw everything we had hoped to see, and so much more.

From the Mara Back to the Chaos of Nairobi

Our flight back to Nairobi was… intense. The turbulence on those tiny planes is no joke. While I had several moments where I thought I might be sick, I managed to hold it together. Across the aisle, I could tell Casey was doing everything possible not to have a full-blown panic attack.

Forty minutes later, we landed safely.

The drive to the hotel, however, may have been even scarier than the flight. Our driver was aggressive — more so than the one I wrote about in Montenegro, and far more than drivers we’ve encountered in Mexico or Italy. At almost the exact same moment, Casey and I texted each other:

Him: I think I’d rather be back on that plane than in this car.
Me: This is scarier than the plane ride.

Security around the airport was tight and very different from what we’re used to. Near the airport, we exited the Uber and walked through a security checkpoint while police searched the vehicle. The process was quick and painless — just unfamiliar. But safety always comes first.

Our hotel stay was brief. We arrived around 5 p.m., had a drink at the bar, repacked, and tried to rest. Our flight to Cairo was scheduled for 4:20 a.m., requiring us to arrive three hours early for extensive screening.

Just as we finished multiple bag checks and reached the counter, we were informed that the flight was delayed by 2.5 hours — a frustrating loss of sleep, but very much a part of the nomad life.

Now, we’re sitting in the Nairobi airport lounge, coffee in hand, snacks nearby, as I finish writing this post. In just a few hours, we’ll be on our way to Cairo to begin the next chapter of our journey: Egypt.

A Final Reflection

Eight months into our adventure around the world, we feel more alive and grateful than ever. The world is breathtaking — not just because of its landscapes, but because of its people.

Every new place, every shared story, every unexpected connection shapes us, softens us, and makes us better humans. Despite everything happening in the world, beauty is still everywhere — in wild places, in shared meals, in quiet sunsets, and in the kindness of strangers.

Never stop looking for it.