Our Scandinavian adventure began in Stockholm, Sweden’s stunning capital and a city that immediately captured my heart. Spread across 14 islands and connected by 57 bridges, Stockholm feels like something out of a dream — where medieval charm meets sleek modern design, surrounded by shimmering blue water in every direction.

Stockholm: The Capital of Cool

We spent three days in the city center, diving headfirst into everything this Nordic capital had to offer. On our first night, we stumbled upon an incredible Mexican restaurant (yes, in Sweden!) and enjoyed some of the best tacos we’ve had in months. The margaritas and mezcal cocktails didn’t disappoint either.

We ended up chatting for hours with two locals — a schoolteacher and a lawyer, both mothers — about everything from travel to education systems and social programs. Before long, Casey was being half-jokingly recruited to start a new career as a science teacher in Stockholm. These women made us feel so welcome, and it set the tone for what would become a truly magical first week.

Of all the cities we’ve explored so far, Stockholm might just be my favorite. The historic architecture, thriving food scene, incredible shopping, and the ever-present water surrounding the city create an atmosphere that’s simply enchanting.

Our second day was the perfect mix of city life and relaxation. We wandered through boutiques, lingered over a late brunch, enjoyed happy hour at our hotel, and ended the night cozied up with Thai takeout and Sunday Night Football (yes, even in Sweden, traditions must continue).

On our final day in the capital, we explored by foot and water taxi, making our way to the ABBA Museum. While Casey is the bigger fan, even I was blown away by how well done it was — interactive, immersive, and full of joy. You can sing along in recording booths, mix your own songs, and even perform virtually with holograms of ABBA themselves. It’s one of those places where you can’t help but smile.

That evening, we ventured to Gamla Stan (Old Town), one of the best-preserved medieval city centers in Europe. The cobblestone streets and multi-colored 17th-century buildings surrounding Stortorget Square look like something out of a fairytale. We grabbed some Asian street food, then crossed the square to a chic cocktail bar facing the Nobel Prize Museum. There, I had the best Espresso Martini of my life — so good, in fact, I snapped a photo of its menu listing (Kaffe Kuriosa).

Falun: Cozy Cabins and Dancing Lights

The next morning, we picked up our rental car and began the 3.5-hour drive to Falun, a picturesque town nestled among lakes and forests. After taking an accidental off-road detour (thanks, Google Maps), we arrived just before sunset at our cozy lakeside cabin — and it was breathtaking. Across the water sat a small island with a stately home perched perfectly at its center. The whole scene looked like a painting.

That night, after settling in and watching the sun dip behind the trees, Casey woke me around 5 a.m. with the words, “Get up — we can see the Northern Lights!” I threw on whatever clothes I could find and raced outside, heart pounding. Above us, the sky was alive. Through our camera lens, green and purple ribbons danced across the darkness. For nearly an hour, we stood in awe, snapping photos and whispering in disbelief. It was the number one thing I’d hoped to see on this Arctic road trip, and it happened on our very first night.

The next day, still buzzing from our Northern Lights experience, we set off on a peaceful hike through a nearby nature preserve. The trail led us through mossy pine forests filled with mushrooms and berries, and the crisp autumn air felt invigorating. Later, we explored the town of Falun, with its charming streets and laid-back vibe. We grabbed lunch at yet another Mexican restaurant (we have a theme going), then stopped by a local tea and chocolate boutique before returning to the cabin for a quiet evening in.

On our third day, we tackled the Bergsstigen Trail — an 11 km (7-mile) hike that took us through a mix of pine forests, spruce woods, and even a working farm. We climbed over 300 meters in elevation, rewarded with sweeping views of lakes, ski lifts, and tiny villages below. It was my longest hike yet, and my legs definitely felt it by the end, but the sense of accomplishment (and the scenery) made every step worth it.

Before leaving Falun, we visited the town’s famous copper mine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once the largest copper mine in Europe, it played a huge role in Sweden’s economy and even helped fund the country’s military expansion in the 17th century. The mine’s distinctive red pigment, Falu Rödfärg, is still used today — it’s the reason so many houses across Sweden are painted that deep red color. Historically, the pigment protected wooden homes from harsh weather, and now it’s become a beloved national aesthetic.

Björnrike: Mountains, Waterfalls, and Cozy Chalets

From Falun, we made our way to Björnrike, about 3.5 hours northwest. The drive was spectacular — a tapestry of autumn colors, winding past lakes, farms, and dense pine forests. It reminded us of our honeymoon drive to Cape Cod, almost 12 years ago to the day.

Our chalet, located at the base of a ski lodge, was straight out of a Scandinavian design magazine — warm wood interiors, panoramic mountain views, and just the right amount of hygge.

The next morning, we set out for a 10 km (6-mile) hike in Vemdalsskalet, bundled in thermal layers against the wind. This trail offered a different kind of beauty — rockier terrain, open vistas, and striking views from the summit. Along the way, we passed through Fallmoran trap, a serene area featuring two small waterfalls and an old shieling (summer pasture) once used by shepherds centuries ago. It was wild, rugged, and wonderfully peaceful.

Today is our final full day in Björnrike, and as I write this, the wind is howling outside. A storm is rolling in from the west coast, and we’re staying bundled up indoors with tea and blankets — a much-needed rest before tomorrow’s 8-hour drive north to Luleå.

Reflections

Our first week in Sweden has been one for the books — from city cocktails and cultural discoveries to cozy cabins and celestial magic. This country has a way of balancing modern sophistication with untouched natural beauty, and I can already tell: this is just the beginning of an unforgettable adventure.